A trail of in between (part II)




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9 February 2008 - After a kilometer we suddenly bounce unto the Western Freeway. This is the major inland entrance to the city center of Durban. Along this route, all the way from Gato Manor slum, each day thousands of commuters come into the city to work. Many go with public transport, but many thousands also foot. It is those walking people and the route they use that Doung has been interested in for a long time and which will also be the major focusing points of Cascoland.
Not to waste energy these pedestrians have, in many locations along this long route, woven their own pathways to reduce on the amount of time lost to get into town. For some this path is their home. Doung shows us how a homeless man was trying to cater for himself along the highway. Close to his informal housing (a bus stop) underneath a bush, a tomato plant is ripening. In the context of this poor homeless man the tomato plant is of course of reasonable significance.
A little further, along the road that runs parallel with the Western Freeway, we come to a bend in the road. What we see is the asphalted road, directly adjacent to it the pavement and then as a third layer of the street a green zone. The green zone however, right in the curve of the street, has been trod on severely and an alternative walking route has sprung up. City Council of course reacts cross when seeing how their hard work of making green areas, is trampled upon. But Doung, again, challenges City Council for what happened here with this public space.
He says that there are several reasons not to use the pavement. City Council might think that these are inconsiderate people who don’t care about the environment. But there are other reasons for this public behavior. One is that many people who commute to town have a long walk to go and want to be careful with the energy they spend. Another reason is security. Placing pavements just beside the road sometimes can be dangerous. Last, and more philosophical, reason is that many people like to feel connected to the earth. They are more connected when feeling earthly soil under their feet.
Our trail of in between continues. We cross one of the bridges and continue following the Freeway. We end up at a small triangular park. This is clearly a pit stop for many walkers. Around the foot of the trees you can clearly see the stains of people who had to relieve themselves. It clearly has become an informal and ‘smelly’ public facility.
We are getting very close to the Warwick triangle. It is one of the most interesting parts of Durban because of it being the transport hub of the city. Formal and informal trade take center stage in this area. But behind the façade of this very active and energetic labyrinth-like public area, where trains, busses, taxis and pedestrians converge with each other, this is also a troubled area. One can only see it when one enters the side streets.
Most walking commuters enter the city at Warwick, the place also where many of them find employment or business opportunities. While we enter it we are greeted by African music, playing aloud from the radio of a taxi bus. Something one will not hear in well to do areas like Musgrave. Taxi drivers are washing their cars, overall people suddenly make much more use of the street as a venue for business. This area used to be one of the experimental areas in post Apartheid South Africa whereby people of different colors where allowed to live together, just like District 6 in Cape Town. But one day the bulldozers came and most of the houses where taken of the Durban map.
The atmosphere in Warwick is vibrant. Knowing that Warwick connects two well to do areas it also becomes a space of in between. One of the best views of this hectic area is when one is standing on the highest walking bridge - just before reaching the sangoma market - crisscrossing the Warwick triangle. Most energy of Durban converges here. There is the train station, the taxi busses, the big busses, the separate food markets and the other markets.
Every space is utilized to almost its full potential. We walk through all the colorful sights of Africa, from bright colored mangos to grapefruit, from cow heads to goat intestines etc etc. Strong natural odors enter our noses. When we leave the fish market and we are about to enter the handicraft market Doung suddenly stops. He points at the entrance. This is one of the entry points, or points of transit, that he has been talking about. Well to do South Africans don’t go over this line. Behind this (the markets of Warwick we have just visited) there is uncertainty, insecurity and most of all the end of illusions of being in charge. In Warwick life is in charge. In Musgrave it is illusions that are in charge. |